years of local research gives our specialists the experience it takes to cure the most difficult lawn and yard problems of northern Utah. We can examine your lawn free of charge and recommend the correct procedure to cure any lawn problem. Deep root feeding for trees and shrubs is also part of our service.
Our program is based on prevention. For example, our early spring treatment contains a pre-emergent weed control to prevent spurge, crabgrass and foxtail weeds. Our early spring deep root feeding for your trees and shrubs includes a systematic insect control to keep bugs off your ornamentals all season long. Our late spring treatment contains an insecticide to prevent billbugs and other larva from spreading into epidemic proportions. Diagnoses of fungus disease is also part of our lawn cure program.
Of course our treatments alone are not cure-alls. Proper watering and mowing are essential to a perfect lawn. Accompanying our treatments you will receive a brochure with suggestions to help you. If you have other questions we are as near as your phone.
Our first priority is your complete satisfaction. If for any reason you are not happy with our results, please give us a call. A more thorough analysis will be made of any persisting problem to determine corrections necessary in our lawn cure program, at no additional cost to you.
SPRING SPRAY - Pre-emergent weed control for crabgrass, spurge and other weeds, plus broadleaf weed control. Heavy liquid fertilizer, includes iron.
Spider barrier for foundation and cracks in sidewalks and driveways
LATE SPRING SPRAY - Insect control for bill bugs, cutworms and grubs. Broad-leaf weed control for dandelion, morning glory, plus regular liquid fertilizer. Nitrogen stabilizer also added.
Root feeding for trees, shrubs and systemic insect control. Foliar treatment also included if needed.
Weed control for fields, vacant lots etc. Can be done in spring or fall.
Weed control for fields, vacant lots etc. Can be done in spring or fall.
Lawn renovation to improve diseased, damaged or old worn out lawns. Works best in late summer.
Hydretain water management to reduce water requirements up to 50%. Lasts 90 days.
Yard root feeding is a soil injection in the spring which includes water soluable balanced fertilizer plus systemic insect control. Also, foliar treatments for insect and trunk applications can be applied. Free estimates are available
SUMMER APPLICATION - Dry fertilizer plus spot weed control. Insect prevention for cranberry girdler for localized program areas.
LATE SUMMER SPRAY - Dry or liquid fertilizer plus spot weed control and insect control if needed for cranberry girdler. (Subterranean sod webworm)
Disease management. (Proper watering)
Roundup non-selective vegetation control along fences, edges and gardens.
Foundation spider barrier
Lawn renovation to improve diseased or damaged old lawns. Works best in late summer.
FALL SPRAY - heavy fertilizer plus broadleaf weed control.
Roundup weed control.
Foundation spider barrier
Weed control for fields, vacant lots etc.
Prices subject to change. We accept MasterCard and Visa.
A 5% discount is given for pre-payment for the whole year. Discounts do not apply for Amex or Discover.
Our lawn care company started in Utah County back in 1979 when Provo was hit by an epidemic of Billbugs. Many lawns were completely destroyed by the grub of this pest. We became very proficient at eradicating this pest while at the same time developing a liquid nitrogen treatment to speed up the recovery of the lawns we serviced. Over the years we improved our fertilizers and pest controls with the latest technologies and application techniques. We pride ourselves with providing our customers with the best preventatives and technology available so that we don't have to try to fix problems which could have been prevented. Hence our slogan, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". We invite you to become a part of the Curtis Lawn Cure family of satisfied customers. We look forward to seeing you soon!
Dan has been in the business since 1979 treating lawns, ornamental trees and shrubs. He graduated from BYU in 1980, then went on to work at Questar Gas, specializing in grounds, landscape improvement and maintenance for most of the 35 years that he worked there, then retired in 2013. Since then he spends full time making Curtis Lawn Cure the best small company with the best quality service available today. He has 6 children: 4 daughters and 2 sons, and 9 grandchildren. He loves the outdoors especially camping, hiking, and house-boating on Lake Powell.
LeGrand is Dan’s oldest son. He has worked side by side with his dad for many years helping to make this company what it is today. When it comes to lawns he really knows his stuff. He loves spending time with his wife, Lindsay and his three children Adalyn, Liam and henry. He loves making lawns green and showing customers how to maximize our treatments.
Mira has been married to Dan for 40 years. She is the backbone of this company, taking care of the books and keeping track of everything, including Dan. She is the sweet, kind voice at the other end of the phone who answers your questions about the cultural practices that make lawns stay green longer.
Does aeration have to be done before the pre-emergent is applied?
No. Dry conditions and scheduling issues have made it necessary to aerate later when lawns have been watered in for better results. Recent studies show that aeratig after the pre-emergent is applied has no discernible effects on weed control.
What is the most common mistake lawn customers make that you have to deal with the most?
Most people mow too short and trim around the edges instead of edging vertically straight up and down. This would prevent most of the weed problems we have to deal with. For example in the spring when the average temperature is around 70 degrees mow short about 2 inches usually the first mowing or two in the early Spring. As the average temperature increases to around 80 degrees raise the mower to at least 2 1/2 inches high. As the temperature approaches 90 degrees the mower should be raised to at least 3 inches in length. During the hottest months of Summer especially June July and August when temperatures are in the upper nineties or even 100 degrees or above the mower should be raised to at least 3 1/2 inches. In the fall the mower can be lowered a notch at a time as temperatures fall, back down to 2 inches for the final mowing in mid November.
Why are we having so many problems with lawn diseases such as Necrotic Ring Spot and melting out (bleached out looking dead grass)?
Most disease problems can be corrected by using correct cultural practices such as proper watering and mowing. The rule of thumb for watering is "heavy but seldom". Mechanical aerating with clean equipment can also be effective in prevention of NRS. A balanced fertilizer with slow release nitrogen keeps the lawn healthy and more resistant to NRS and other diseases.
What watering schedule have you found that works best here along the Wasatch Front?
Watering deep and infrequent is the key to a healthy disease free lawn. The lawn should be allowed to dry out as much as possible between waterings. This encourages roots to go deeper "chasing" after the water that remains deeper in the soil profile. By thus training the roots of the turf to "stretch" deeper they are literally toughened up to take the heat during the hot summer months. This training should begin in the Spring by delaying turning on the sprinklers as long as possible. When they are turned on water manually for as long as possible even into early June if possible. During April and May usually once a week if needed is sufficient. In June as the weather dries out completely, watering once every two or three days is sufficient. Avoid watering every day and in the evenings to keep the lawn surface dry for as long as possible. A good watering schedule that works well especially in sandy soils is a M W F or a 2 2 3 days apart for a weekly schedule. This allows a good opportunity or the lawn to dry out during the busy weekend keeping the roots "stretching" at least once a week.
So how much should I water each time for a deep or heavy watering?
A lawn should be watered to a depth of at least 6 inches to be healthy. This usually takes about 1/2 inch of water to reach the proper depth. For the average fan type sprinklers this takes about 30 minutes. If you have gear driven solid stream sprinklers add about 15 more minutes to your watering time. To be exact use a straight sided can such as a tuna can to measure how long it takes to water 1/2 inch. Place the can about half the distance the sprinkler reaches. To avoid dry spots each area should have double coverage, that is, it takes two sprinklers to water any given area evenly.
Are there any other ways I can save water during the arid hot days of Summer?
For the last couple of years we've been using a water saving product called Hydretain. This product actually has the properties of holding water next to the roots of the turf. By using this product you can eliminate one of the watering days of your schedule. If you are on a 2 2 3 schedule it can be changed to a once every 3 or 4 days for the weekly schedule. If you are watering every 3 days you can cut back to once every 5 or 6 days. Even if you have secondary water and the price is fixed, the lawn is healthier as a result and we don't run out of secondary water only to have it completely turned off with lawns burning up. The nice thing about Hydretain is it lasts for 90 days. If it is applied in the late Spring it works all through the driest part of Summer saving you the most water and money.
